The seller has known this airplane for years. You've seen it for an afternoon. A pre-buy inspection closes that gap before any money changes hands, and it's done by a mechanic who works for you.
Brooks wrote a column on pre-purchase inspections for I Fly America in 2013, and the newsletter excerpt is still online. The short version for today's buyers is simple. Hire your own mechanic, read every logbook, and expect a surprise or two.
A pre-buy is not an annual
An annual answers one question. Is this airplane airworthy today? A pre-buy answers a different one. What is this airplane going to cost me to own?
AOPA makes the same point in its guide to pre-purchase inspections. A plane can pass its annual and still be a bad buy. The engine might be close to its recommended overhaul time. Fresh paint can hide corrosion. A damage repair from decades ago might never have been written up properly.
What gets checked
The logbooks
Records come first, because that's where the expensive problems hide. A good records review covers:
- Airframe, engine and propeller logs, start to finish. Missing years are a red flag.
- Every airworthiness directive that applies, and proof each one was done and signed off.
- Major repairs and alterations, which should each have an FAA Form 337 on file.
- Paperwork for any modifications, such as an engine upgrade or new avionics.
- Engine hours since the last major overhaul, and how the engine was used and stored.
- Damage history, checked against the NTSB's public accident database.
The airplane
- Corrosion, especially in the places that are hard to see.
- Engine health, with a compression check, a borescope look inside the cylinders and an oil sample.
- Flight controls, cables and pulleys.
- Landing gear, brakes and tires.
- Avionics and electrical, to confirm everything on the panel works.
- Signs of old damage or poor repair work.
The test flight
If the seller agrees, a test flight shows things a ground run can't. You learn how the plane is rigged, how the engine performs at altitude, and whether the autopilot and avionics behave in the air.
Who should do it
Use a mechanic who works for you, not the seller's shop. The seller's mechanic may be perfectly honest, but they have already signed off on this airplane. You want fresh eyes.
Look for an A&P mechanic, ideally one with Inspection Authorization, who knows the make. Brooks holds an IA, has worked on Cirrus aircraft since 2005, and works on Beechcraft, Piper, Mooney and Cessna too.
What it costs
The price depends on how deep you go. A records review is the smallest job. A full inspection with a borescope, an oil sample and a test flight takes longer.
The airplane matters as well. A retractable or turbocharged plane takes more time than a fixed-gear trainer, and travel adds cost if the plane sits far away. Instead of guessing at a number, call Brooks with the make, model and location, and he'll give you a quote. His rates are economical.
Skipping the pre-buy to save money rarely works out. AOPA's guide tells of a new owner who spent more than $5,000 fixing improper work found after the sale, on a plane that came with a fresh annual.
Have this ready when you call
- The N-number, make and model
- Where the plane is based
- The seller's contact information
- Whether the complete logbooks are available
Still shopping? Start with our checklist for buying a used airplane.